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An introduction to
Brittany
Brittany is a broad peninsula in the west of
France, bordered to the north by the English
Channel and to the west by the Atlantic.
It is a land of rich legend, a land bound to
the ocean in many ways. It enjoys various
micro-climates and a patchwork of unique,
picturesque landscapes.
Further inland, Brocéliande Forest still
resonates with tales of Merlin, the fairy
Viviane, and King Arthur himself. A heritage
blending legend with fact, lies in the very
mortar of the 13-century-old Mont Saint-Michel
Abbey, or in Carnac's mystical megalithic
alignments.
Brittany is a region to be savoured, to be
discovered and seen from every angle in every
season.
Above all, Brittany is best expressed through
its folklore and customs: the fest-noz (folk
dances), galettes de blé noir (buckwheat
pancakes), cider by the bowl, chouchen (a form
of mead) and mouthwatering seafood
platters...
Location:
Brittany is situated in the north-west of
France, an iconic "trident" of land jutting out
into the Atlantic Ocean. One of the most
popular tourist destinations in France,
Brittany is famous for its rugged, misty
coastline, untamed beauty, sunshine and Celtic
traditions. With 1,800 kilometres of coastline,
Brittany has more beaches than any other region
of France and is a Mecca for surfers, sailors,
and water sport-lovers in general. Steeped in
legend, local culture boasts numerous festivals
and customs in the name of ancient Celtic
deities and beliefs.
Traditions:
"Celtitude"
or Celtic pride is a salient aspect of Breton
culture. The traditional Bagad cafés bring to
mind old country taverns but with the added
bonus of a fiddler playing in a corner, while a
fest-noz ("night feast") is a riotous
traditional outdoor ball that has even tourists
doing the jig and similar dances. Maritime or
nautical festivals and rituals are numerous, so
you can experience parades, dances, benediction
ceremonies for fishermen and troménies
(religious processions in honour of the
saints), during which locals sometimes wear
traditional Breton garb.
The rich Breton mythology is a world of druids,
korrigans or tiny trolls, faeries and pixies,
and of course the Knights of the Round
Table.
Gastronomy:
To
the average Breton, nothing fills you up like a
good galette (buckwheat pancake) and a sweet
crêpe for desert.
For fine dining a symphony of seafood flavours
is always a delight, or one could try the
kig-ha-farz, with meat, vegetables and far
(local pastry). Rennes has some delux "coucou"
poultry, while the naturally-salted lamb from
the Mont-Saint-Michel salt meadows is a truly
divine experience; both of these should be
served with some of the delectable local beans
and potatoes.
For desert, enjoy pastries such as far Breton
and kouig amann, or some of the finest biscuits
in the world: the Pont-Aven galettes and the
fine dentelles crêpes from Quimper.
To wash it all down nothing can beat a nice
bowl of Breton cidre and some chouchen, a
honeyed brew similar to mead.
Quimper,
Brittany
Kemper (to use the original Breton name) is the
historic capital of Cornouaille. It stands at
the confluence of the Steir, the Frout, and the
Odet which runs through the town and is crossed
by numerous bridges. Quimper itself is a busy
residential area and an major tourist
destination.
Be sure to explore the town, the
Saint-Corentin cathedral - a fine example of
Breton Gothic architecture - and the 16th and
17th century houses... The local Fine Arts
Museum houses a splendid collection of ancient,
regional and Breton works, and of course there
are regional museums and traditional
earthenware factories well worth visiting.
The discovery of 6 000 year-old silex fragments
proves that human settlement in the area dates
back to that period. During the Roman era,
Quimper was considered a part of the Osismii
Gaulish territory. Mention is made of a bishop,
Saint Corentin, in late 9th century documents;
legend has it that the city owes its name,
Quimper Corentin, to this character.
Quimper
faience
Quimper has been a centre of the pottery
industry for over 300 years, and the
beautifully crafted ceramic pieces (known as
faience) produced in the city are
internationally recognized as being of the
finest quality. There are many mass produced
imitations, but every item of genuine Quimper
faience is hand-painted and individually signed
by the creator before firing, making it an
extremely collectable item. Vases, plates,
bowls, cups, jugs and a wide variety of
ornaments are produced, each one decorated with
a highly distinctive design.
Predominant colours used in these designs are
blue, green, yellow and orange, and while
flowers and birds sometimes feature, it is the
work displaying Breton figures in traditional
dress that is most closely associated with
Quimper faience.
The oldest name in Quimper faience is HB
Henriot, a company who still produce
traditional styles and offer guided tours of
their factory. For more contemporary designs,
the Faiencerie d’Art Breton (founded in 1994)
might be more to your taste. Prices vary
considerably according to the piece, but there
are also good quality seconds available in a
shop near the factories.
So Many Places to
explore...
With
an amazing 750 miles of twisting, turning
coastline, it's no wonder that so much of
Brittany's rich heritage is linked to the sea.
In parts, towering cliffs and rugged rock
formations create the most dramatic scenery
imaginable, whilst elsewhere there are glorious
sandy beaches and classic resorts that are
perfect for just about every conceivable water
sport.
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Typical Brittany Coast
Line
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And in between these two
extremes you'll discover literally hundreds of
charming little sheltered bays and inlets, many
of which form harbours for Brittany's
traditional fishing villages where little has
changed for centuries. Like almost everything
about France's most westerly region, its coast
has a character that is absolutely
unique.
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Typical Brittany Coast
Line
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Inland, Brittany's fabulously beautiful
countryside is equally diverse, with green
rolling hills, peaceful river valleys,
prehistoric sites, and enchanting forests.
Medieval towns and villages steeped in history
and legend are everywhere, and numerous
traditional festivals take place during the
summer months, particularly in the west of the
region where the Breton culture is
strongest.
Regional cuisine specialities include a
variety of seafood and lamb dishes, artichokes
and crêpes, all of which can be very pleasantly
accompanied by the locally brewed sweet
cider.
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